S outhern India numbers among the most promising industrial regions on the subcontinent. During recent years, an efficient textile industry has developed in Tirupur, which is home to the production facilities of Exim Knits Pvt. Ltd., Mumbai. This vertically structured company has developed into an important exporter of quality textiles and has a spotless dyehouse, fully equipped with modern THEN-Airflow® machines.

Exim Knits, which was founded in 1993 as a sub-supplier to the Indian apparel industry, mainly produces knits. Today, the company's growth is demonstrated by the vertical integration of its knitting shop, dyehouse and finishing, printing, embroidery and sewing shops. The clothing production center is located in Avanashi near Tirupur; knitting, dyeing and finishing are located in Perundurai.

Executive management consists of Director P. Padmanabhan, who has a master's degree in agriculture; and in complete control of production, Director Ajay Doshi, who himself has a master's degree in business administration. Both work closely together and are primarily responsible for the tremendous progress at Exim Knits. The Exim Group workforce numbers 580 people, of whom approximately 150 work in the dyehouse and the remainder in the make-up area. A visibly cheerful Doshi provided a tour of the dyehouse, a facility configured in a way that offers room for further expansion.


A Gradual Offensive

The company maintained its orientation as a sub-supplier to the Indian clothing industry until 1999, when it initiated a major change of direction. "This rethink actually commenced at ITMA," Doshi said, "when we asked ourselves, why couldn't we become successful producers? The preparations required an enormous effort and took around 10 months, but then we started production with our knitting, sewing and printing shops. Business got off to a good start, and therefore we decided to install our own dyehouse."

Exim is now active in the apparel, knitting, dyeing and finishing areas, as well as the printing field. The company manufactures some 3,500 to 4,000 kilograms (kg) of knits daily on 11 knitting machines. Of that production, 80 percent is required for in-house needs, and the balance is sold to third parties. "With the new dyehouse, we can see the influence of the dyeing on our knits, to precisely monitor the interaction between our knitting and dyehouse and thus have the whole process under control," Doshi said. A modern dye and quality lab with all the important testing equipment is available for permanent quality checks.


Difficulties Mastered

According to Doshi, the company's beginnings were extremely difficult. "In 1993, we were faced with major obstacles, such as the many quotas applying to numerous articles," he said. "Everything had to be outsourced, and we were not really competitive. Moreover, ambitious entrepreneurs did not receive the levels of support that are currently available. Obtaining a loan was very problematic, and the textile industry in our area lacked a lobby that would have supported us. All this has now altered.

"Previously, we were the last to hear about problems. If there were difficulties, which generally related to quality, as the final link in the chain, we were frequently unable to act in time," Doshi continued. "This was especially annoying because quality is the most important factor, particularly when one is export-oriented. We were well aware of the fact that if we wanted to be really successful, the first step would involve product quality. No sooner said than done, and this was the start of the rethink and the shift of direction that put us on the right road. With our current organization, we have everything under control, which corresponds with our corporate philosophy of zero-defect production, 'no trial and error, just get it right first time!'"

Ever Faster, Ever Tougher

Doshi comes from Kolkata, but not from a textile background. "My father is in the jute business, but not for textile purposes," Doshi said. "He was involved in the company manufacturing air filters, regulators and lubricators for the Indian market, which were installed in pneumatic devices. Then for family reasons, I paid a visit to Tirupur and interacted with Padmanabhan, with whom we enjoyed long-term family relations, and where there are a large number of textile operations; and somehow or other I developed a taste for the textile industry. All the pieces in the puzzle then gradually came together, with one leading to another, and today we have an extremely modern dyehouse in Tirupur with a possible capacity of 6,300 kg per day."

Things are running smoothly at Exim Knits. "India in general, and our company included, possess great potential," Doshi said. "We simply have to stay on the ball. Everything is getting faster, and the delivery periods are becoming steadily shorter. In the past, our key accounts, such as the French company Auchan, purchased twice a year, but now there are four to six collections. We have to react quickly and flexibly to this shift in purchasing patterns, otherwise we will soon be out of the market. Our customers expect that the products be finished within eight weeks of the order receipt. Therefore, flexibility is the non plus ultra."

One Hundred-Percent Airflow Dyehouse

Doshi describes Exim's most important target group as the large retail chains with their own brands. His company cooperates successfully with enterprises such as the Auchan Group as well as brands like Levi's and Pimkie. Eighty-five percent of company production is exported, mainly to Europe — primarily France, Germany, Italy and Spain — but also to Poland and Russia. One-hundred-percent cotton articles represent the company's flagship market product, although these have recently been joined by blends.

According to Doshi, this is the reason why a modern and, above all, flexible, dyehouse is a basic prerequisite for success. The dyehouse at the Exim plant in Perundurai has only aerodynamic THEN-Airflow AFE 50, AFE 225, AFE 450 dyeing machines; and a four-chamber AFE 900 with THEN Dyehouse System (TDS). The TDS assumes the administration and organization of the dyehouse, integrating THEN with other brand products, as well as PC control systems, and hosts, into a dyehouse system.

"The thought process to go for our own dyehouse started sometime in autumn 2004," Doshi said. "Then I met with Harald Dörfer of THEN at our Tirupur factory. In December 2004, we traveled to the India ITME in Mumbai, where we visited the THEN stand. Our engineers were highly enthusiastic about the technical possibilities offered by the Airflow technology and then we had an opportunity to test undyed material on the machine. The economic advantages, which were practically identical with the ecological benefits, were outstanding and therefore things started to move relatively quickly. We met Werner Hübsch and Roland Adrion from THEN, who, with additional facts and the ideal layout, convinced us that this technology was just what we were looking for. In March/April 2005, the final decision to install our own dyehouse went hand in hand with the desire to purchase THEN machinery."


Ecology And Economy

Doshi names the main advantages of the THEN-Airflow machines as flexibility, the short liquor ratio and absolute quality reproducibility. "The low water consumption and reduced dye volume requirement not only help us to keep costs down, but also provide the goods with improved form stability," Doshi said. "The benefits are enormous, as we need 10-percent less dye, up to 30-percent fewer chemicals and a correspondingly smaller amount of salt.

"Moreover, there are other positive points," Doshi continued. "Lower water consumption and the cut in dye consumption mean that wastewater volumes are also significantly reduced. In addition, the use of the THEN-Airflow short dyeing machines means less steam is needed, which in view of current energy prices is an operating cost factor that should not be underestimated."

A Promising Outlook

When asked if the company's expectations were fulfilled, Doshi responded: "Absolutely, 100 percent. If we think of expanding the dyehouse, without doubt we will again purchase THEN-Airflow machines."

Doshi also is optimistic about the future. "Here in southern India, we have great potential," he said. "The infrastructure is steadily improving, and the population is well-educated. We still have a lot to learn and must stay on the pace, but if we succeed, then everything points to further growth."

January/February 2007