Tessitura Monti: Globalized Quality
Tessitura Monti's mill in India uses Goller machines to produce fabrics of the same high quality asa its European operations.
By Jürg Rupp, Executive Editor
T
he fact that product flows can shift is evident with regard to fabric production at
Italy-based Tessitura Monti S.p.A. The company’s new mill in Kolhapur, India, which works to the
same quality standards as those employed in Italy, has installed machines from Germany-based Goller
Textilmaschinen GmbH for the entire wet finishing area. Tessitura Monti made the decision to use
the Goller wet finishing equipment in India based on its positive and established experience using
the machinery in Italy.
Tessitura Monti was founded as a weaving mill in 1911. Since then, the company has produced
fabrics for shirts, women’s blouses and children’s clothing, as well as home textiles. Until two
years ago, the company also manufactured yarns, but closed these activities in order to focus on
weaving and dyeing operations.
According to Dr. Paolo Monti, company director and head of finishing, the F.lli Monti S.p.A.
holding company currently has sales of some 100 million euros (US$136.6 million), of which 65
percent relate to exports. The three weaving mills in Maserada, Italy; the Czech Republic; and
India each produce one third of total production amounting to 16 million meters of fabric annually.
All the Italian and Czech fabrics are finished in Maserada; the Indian production is sold in its
entirety to international customers and to the Indian market.
Dr. Paolo Monti, director and head of finishing, F.lli Monti S.p.A. holding company
Excellent Reputation
Tessitura Monti enjoys a reputation as a high-quality supplier of shirt fabrics, and the vast majority of its customers are shirt manufacturers. The company produces 95 percent of its fabrics from dyed yarns, and largely uses 100-percent cotton yarns. Fine linen yarns are also utilized for the summer collections, and 50/50 cotton/wool blends are used for the winter collections.
“My grandfather’s weaving mill produced cheap fabrics for bed linen and working clothes,” Monti said. “Nets were also manufactured. Production was expanded between the two world wars, and at that time the company had more than 1,000 looms. Fortunately, the production facilities in Maserada were not damaged during World War II, and this meant that work resumed relatively quickly. Production in the 1950s was largely focused on dyed yarn terry products.
“The switch to 100-percent cotton fabrics for men’s shirts took place in the 1960s,” Monti continued. “Due to the prior experience with high-quality, fine, yarn-dyed articles, this change was completed smoothly, and standards improved steadily. Moreover, linen yarns were introduced in the 1980s and remain a part of current production.”
External Production Expansion
The company decided to extend production to other countries in 2000, with the choice falling on India and the Czech Republic. The reasons are relatively evident — Tessitura Monti wanted and needed to meet the demands of the local markets.
“We produce exactly the same products in India, on precisely the same machines,” Monti said. “ It is impossible to differentiate between the European and Indian fabrics. Moreover, in order to secure this identical quality, our specialists from Italy visit India on a monthly basis.”
The Tessitura Monti plant in Maserada, Italy, has a Goller washing machine with six compartments.
Tessitura Monti enjoys a reputation as a high-quality supplier of shirt fabrics, and the vast majority of its customers are shirt manufacturers. The company produces 95 percent of its fabrics from dyed yarns, and largely uses 100-percent cotton yarns. Fine linen yarns are also utilized for the summer collections, and 50/50 cotton/wool blends are used for the winter collections.
“My grandfather’s weaving mill produced cheap fabrics for bed linen and working clothes,” Monti said. “Nets were also manufactured. Production was expanded between the two world wars, and at that time the company had more than 1,000 looms. Fortunately, the production facilities in Maserada were not damaged during World War II, and this meant that work resumed relatively quickly. Production in the 1950s was largely focused on dyed yarn terry products.
“The switch to 100-percent cotton fabrics for men’s shirts took place in the 1960s,” Monti continued. “Due to the prior experience with high-quality, fine, yarn-dyed articles, this change was completed smoothly, and standards improved steadily. Moreover, linen yarns were introduced in the 1980s and remain a part of current production.”
External Production Expansion
The company decided to extend production to other countries in 2000, with the choice falling on India and the Czech Republic. The reasons are relatively evident — Tessitura Monti wanted and needed to meet the demands of the local markets.
“We produce exactly the same products in India, on precisely the same machines,” Monti said. “ It is impossible to differentiate between the European and Indian fabrics. Moreover, in order to secure this identical quality, our specialists from Italy visit India on a monthly basis.”
The Tessitura Monti plant in Maserada, Italy, has a Goller washing machine with six compartments.
Creativity Is Vital
Monti sees marketing as being the biggest problem of the past 20 years. “In view of globalization, we have to offer increasingly large collections,” he said. “Everything has to be done at growing speed, and quality requirements are also steadily rising. Today, we have to be a genuine all-rounder, and the Indians are also demanding specialities at the highest level. This direction also corresponds with our typical Italian corporate philosophy, ‘Non mollare,’ which means never ceasing to maintain quality.”
The collection contains more than 70 diverse qualities, which also must be subjected to a variety of finishes. Monti described easy-care and non-iron as important characteristics. “We have to retain a leading position with regard to the creation of new products. We also set priorities in the development area, with the aim of remaining that vital one step ahead and constantly offering the market something new. We are intensively involved with nanotechnology, which demands completely new dyes. We believe this area possesses great potential, as the finished fabrics offer very different aspects to those finished using conventional methods.”
Twenty people are employed in the “ideas department” — which in view of the huge collection and the related massive expenditure, is an absolute must. “Our customers know that we offer the biggest collections twice a year, as well as providing the ongoing development of special articles for certain customers,” Monti said. “Of these articles, 25 to 30 percent can be supplied from stock.” Recently, the company with great success has launched fabrics using Ne 200/2 twists.
The Machine Pool
The finishing department can process the complete range of cotton and blended fabrics, as well as provide surface finishing such as calendering and emerizing. The facility in Maserada employs a Goller washing machine with six washing compartments.
“We were in the process of selecting machinery for our new plant in India, which included washing and mercerization systems,” Monti said. “We thought, as we are already working with Goller in Maserada, then why not in India, too? We carried out extensive tests with mercerization and washing tests using Goller machines, and the results were extremely positive. The next task was to discuss the subsequent steps, and during this procedure, we sensed that our relations with the people from Goller were constantly improving and that the levels of mutual trust were steadily rising.”
Tessitura Monti has been operating with the Goller machines for a year in Maserada. “We are completely satisfied,” Monti said. “There are no problems, and this also applies to our relations with Goller’s representatives in Italy, with whom we enjoy excellent teamwork. All in all, we are delighted.”
Reduced Water Consumption
The operation in India uses a Goller-Desiza desizing unit, an Effecta washing machine with four compartments — which is the same model as is employed in Italy, where a machine with six compartments is in operation — along with a Perfecta cold wet-in-wet mercerization system. This year, Monti will process 5 million meters of fabric in Kolhapur, a figure that is set to rise to 10 million meters next year.
“We have had the same positive experience in our Indian plant,” Monti said. “The washing machine is working well, as is the heating system. Moreover, we have no creases in the fabrics, and one cannot ask for more. Of special importance for us is the fact that we now use 30 percent less water than in the past, which is a sizeable amount. The mercerization system is also running smoothly, and we have been able to combine our experience with that of the Goller experts. The layout of the equipment is simple and precisely matches our operations, which saves a great deal of time during cleaning. Everything is clean, operating smoothly and allowing problem-free maintenance.
Goller machines operate smoothly.
Monti sees marketing as being the biggest problem of the past 20 years. “In view of globalization, we have to offer increasingly large collections,” he said. “Everything has to be done at growing speed, and quality requirements are also steadily rising. Today, we have to be a genuine all-rounder, and the Indians are also demanding specialities at the highest level. This direction also corresponds with our typical Italian corporate philosophy, ‘Non mollare,’ which means never ceasing to maintain quality.”
The collection contains more than 70 diverse qualities, which also must be subjected to a variety of finishes. Monti described easy-care and non-iron as important characteristics. “We have to retain a leading position with regard to the creation of new products. We also set priorities in the development area, with the aim of remaining that vital one step ahead and constantly offering the market something new. We are intensively involved with nanotechnology, which demands completely new dyes. We believe this area possesses great potential, as the finished fabrics offer very different aspects to those finished using conventional methods.”
Twenty people are employed in the “ideas department” — which in view of the huge collection and the related massive expenditure, is an absolute must. “Our customers know that we offer the biggest collections twice a year, as well as providing the ongoing development of special articles for certain customers,” Monti said. “Of these articles, 25 to 30 percent can be supplied from stock.” Recently, the company with great success has launched fabrics using Ne 200/2 twists.
The Machine Pool
The finishing department can process the complete range of cotton and blended fabrics, as well as provide surface finishing such as calendering and emerizing. The facility in Maserada employs a Goller washing machine with six washing compartments.
“We were in the process of selecting machinery for our new plant in India, which included washing and mercerization systems,” Monti said. “We thought, as we are already working with Goller in Maserada, then why not in India, too? We carried out extensive tests with mercerization and washing tests using Goller machines, and the results were extremely positive. The next task was to discuss the subsequent steps, and during this procedure, we sensed that our relations with the people from Goller were constantly improving and that the levels of mutual trust were steadily rising.”
Tessitura Monti has been operating with the Goller machines for a year in Maserada. “We are completely satisfied,” Monti said. “There are no problems, and this also applies to our relations with Goller’s representatives in Italy, with whom we enjoy excellent teamwork. All in all, we are delighted.”
Reduced Water Consumption
The operation in India uses a Goller-Desiza desizing unit, an Effecta washing machine with four compartments — which is the same model as is employed in Italy, where a machine with six compartments is in operation — along with a Perfecta cold wet-in-wet mercerization system. This year, Monti will process 5 million meters of fabric in Kolhapur, a figure that is set to rise to 10 million meters next year.
“We have had the same positive experience in our Indian plant,” Monti said. “The washing machine is working well, as is the heating system. Moreover, we have no creases in the fabrics, and one cannot ask for more. Of special importance for us is the fact that we now use 30 percent less water than in the past, which is a sizeable amount. The mercerization system is also running smoothly, and we have been able to combine our experience with that of the Goller experts. The layout of the equipment is simple and precisely matches our operations, which saves a great deal of time during cleaning. Everything is clean, operating smoothly and allowing problem-free maintenance.
Goller machines operate smoothly.
Market Situation In Light Of Globalization
As a member of the company’s executive management, Monti is responsible for the entire finishing area. Since obtaining a doctorate in chemistry in 1982, he has been working in the entirely family-owned company as a representative of the third generation.
“At present, the market situation is much better than it was a few years ago,” Monti said. “ The demand for top quality and new products has increased, and customer attitudes have also altered. Today, many customers produce the same products in various plants around the world. Everyone is looking for the same quality, irrespective of where the goods originate. For example, our customers want dimensional stability of 0.5 percent. And although these demands are continuing to rise, we are well-equipped to deal with them.”
Up to now, Tessitura Monti was very export-oriented, selling 65 to 70 percent of its production internationally. However, considering the global flow of products, these figures are becoming increasingly blurred. “In view of our production in various countries, this aspect of our business has shifted,” Monti said. “For major customers such as Marks & Spencer, Prada, Hugo Boss or Banana Republic, we send fabrics to a range of destinations. We have more than 1,500 customers worldwide who anticipate smooth service of the highest quality from us.”
Monti says that at present, the top seller among men’s shirts is provided with articles using Ne 200/2 twists. For women’s blouses, the current hit is formed by blends of cotton with polyester or Lycra®, the so-called mono- or bi-elastic “comfort fabrics.” Moreover, fabrics finished using nanotechnology are attracting increasing interest.
Maintaining Constant Standards
Tessitura Monti is recognized as a market leader, but the competition is becoming ever tougher, and the company works hard to maintain its position. "We have a long history, and the retention of our experience and expertise at the highest level constitutes our everyday objectives," Monti said. "We cannot afford to relax in this connection. We have a highly motivated and professional team with young people who are focused on the market of today and tomorrow. We are always receptive to new customer wishes and seek to retain our role as a leading European company that is also a global player. It is to this end that we constantly give our all."
May/June 2007
As a member of the company’s executive management, Monti is responsible for the entire finishing area. Since obtaining a doctorate in chemistry in 1982, he has been working in the entirely family-owned company as a representative of the third generation.
“At present, the market situation is much better than it was a few years ago,” Monti said. “ The demand for top quality and new products has increased, and customer attitudes have also altered. Today, many customers produce the same products in various plants around the world. Everyone is looking for the same quality, irrespective of where the goods originate. For example, our customers want dimensional stability of 0.5 percent. And although these demands are continuing to rise, we are well-equipped to deal with them.”
Up to now, Tessitura Monti was very export-oriented, selling 65 to 70 percent of its production internationally. However, considering the global flow of products, these figures are becoming increasingly blurred. “In view of our production in various countries, this aspect of our business has shifted,” Monti said. “For major customers such as Marks & Spencer, Prada, Hugo Boss or Banana Republic, we send fabrics to a range of destinations. We have more than 1,500 customers worldwide who anticipate smooth service of the highest quality from us.”
Monti says that at present, the top seller among men’s shirts is provided with articles using Ne 200/2 twists. For women’s blouses, the current hit is formed by blends of cotton with polyester or Lycra®, the so-called mono- or bi-elastic “comfort fabrics.” Moreover, fabrics finished using nanotechnology are attracting increasing interest.
Maintaining Constant Standards
Tessitura Monti is recognized as a market leader, but the competition is becoming ever tougher, and the company works hard to maintain its position. "We have a long history, and the retention of our experience and expertise at the highest level constitutes our everyday objectives," Monti said. "We cannot afford to relax in this connection. We have a highly motivated and professional team with young people who are focused on the market of today and tomorrow. We are always receptive to new customer wishes and seek to retain our role as a leading European company that is also a global player. It is to this end that we constantly give our all."
May/June 2007
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