Innovations In Knitting
Textile World Asia looks at recent technological developments for seamless, float plating and technical textile applications.
Janet Bealer Rodie, Associate Editor
K
nitting machinery manufacturers offer a range of technologies to answer the needs of end
product manufacturers' constructions. Following are some recent developments in knitting technology
from six leading machinery manufacturers.
Shima Seiki's WholeGarment technology enables production of fully fashioned garments in one piece, with no sewing or linking required.
Seamless Technology
Interest in seamless knits has manufacturers in all segments - whether flat, circular or warp knitting - developing machinery to enable ever newer concepts to be produced. The apparel and therapeutic medical textile sectors are especially interested in seamless technologies. Apparel areas include activewear, outerwear, swimwear, lingerie, hosiery and shapewear. Medical applications include compression hosiery and a range of garments geared toward promoting wellness.
Shima Seiki Manufacturing Ltd., Japan: Shima Seiki's WholeGarment seamless flat knitting technology enables production of a garment in one piece, with no sewing or linking required. MACH2X, the latest model in the WholeGarment line, offers more than twice the productivity of previous versions.
"WholeGarment production utilizes 3-D shaping technology, which allows the garment to conform to the body for unprecedented fit and comfort," said Masaki Karasuno, Shima Seiki's creative director, noting the technology's labor-, time- and cost-saving benefits, including the possibility of on-demand knitting and mass-customization of knitwear; the ability of knitters to stay competitive with knitters in low-labor-cost countries; and resource savings because yarn consumption is limited to what is needed to make the garment.
Masaki said a MACH2X15L machine was shown at ShanghaiTex 2009 knitting a ladies' pleated pullover with structured design knit in 23 minutes, 19 seconds. "The MACH2X is capable of sustained knitting speeds of 1.6 meters per second, the fastest production specs for a flat knitting machine," Masaki added.
H. Stoll GmbH & Co. KG, Germany: Stoll has improved the productivity of its Compact Class CMS flat knitting machines, which are able to partially use different gauges on one machine without replacing needles or converting gauges. Intarsia knitting capabilities are standard on most models. The machines also offer short setup times, enabling quick changes and fulfillment of large orders.
Two new entry models include the CMS 502 and CMS 502 multi gauge, which feature two knitting systems, a 45-inch working width, take-down comb, cutting and clamping on the right side, yarn feed on the left side, moveable display slide, additional yarn control units, two adjustable plating yarn feeders, adjustable main take-down, increased productivity, and gauges ranging from E5 to E18.
Stoll also offers accessories and software solutions, including intarsia kits, plating yarn feeders and kits, a new ASCON® automatic stitch control yarn measuring device, and enhanced M1plus® pattern software.
Santoni S.p.A., Italy: New electronic seamlesswear circular knitting machinery from Santoni includes its patented SM8-TOP1 V and SM12-EVO3 single-jersey machines, and the SM9-MF double-jersey machine. Apparel applications include undergarments, outerwear, activewear, swimwear and sanitarywear.
SM8-TOP1 V features eight yarn feeds with one selection point per feed. SM12-EVO3 has 12 yarn feeds with three selection points per feed; and can process natural- and man-made-fiber yarns, and bare and covered elastic yarns. Both models offer optional terry capabilities; and enable high production of single body-size garments, and eight or 12 feeds of high-definition patterns with distinct colors, depending on the model.
SM9-MF is suitable for knitting ribbed garments in a continuous tubular fabric or single garments using one weft or separation yarn. The machine's needle-to-needle selection in three configurations on the cylinder and two on the dial, as well as transfer positions, enable production of all styles of ribbing and inlaid structures.
Karl Mayer Textilmaschinenfabrik GmbH, Germany: This warp knitting machinery manufacturer sees significant opportunities in the seamless market and has been expanding its activities in that area. The latest version of its DJ narrow Seamless Smart double bar raschel machines - the DJ 6/2 (EL), 44" - can produce a variety of seamless or virtually seamless products such as pantyhose and stockings, undergarments and sportswear. The machine features four ground guide bars - two more than the earlier-edition DJ 4/2, is available in gauges E24 and E28, and can be equipped with an electronic guide bar drive (EL) - which allows a high degree of patterning flexibility and enables very efficient processing even of small batches, the company reports. It also features a jacquard system with two jacquard guide bars, piezo technology to control the jacquard needles, KAMCOS® control and monitoring system with Multi-Speed, and electronic beam drives.
"The number of orders has been better than expected since the DJ series was introduced," said Oliver Mathews, sales manager, Karl Mayer. "In the light of the current economic situation, companies are trying to improve their competitive edge by coming up with new ideas and trying new approaches. Our DJ 6/2 can help them to do this."
Float Plating Technology
Pai Lung Machinery Mill Co. Ltd., Taiwan: Circular knitting machinery manufacturer Pai Lung offers its PL-KSFP four-track single-jersey float plating machine to produce a knit fabric that looks like a woven but has the feel and breathability of a knit. The technology, first developed for automotive seat cover fabrics, is now being used to produce denim, suiting and corduroy fabrics."
Pai Lung developed and patented the structure using knit and float, using knit cams and sinker cams as well as sinkers to do a knit on one side of the fabric and a very tight float on the other. The float gives the woven effect. Depending on the cylinder cam arrangement, the machine has the ability to do one-, two- and three-needle floats," said Mike Moody, vice president of United States-based Nova Knitting Machinery - joint partner with Pai Lung, and the company's exclusive representative in North and Central America and Colombia.
"The fabric has gone through extensive testing to measure air penetration, sewing strength recovery rates, durability and pilling. In all tests, the float plated fabric either matched or excelled beyond the woven results," he added.
Moody said a 26-inch-diameter 20-gauge machine can knit 900 to 1,000 pounds of 18/1 cotton thread in 24 hours. A lighter-weight polyester suiting fabric would be produced using a 24- to 28-gauge machine.
Pai Lung's float plating technology produces knit fabrics that look like wovens and has applications for denim, suiting and corduroy fabrics.
Technical Textile Solutions
Comez S.p.A., Italy: Comez, a maker of crochet knitting, warp knitting and narrow weaving machinery, lately has put a certain emphasis on technical textile solutions. Machines suitable for such fabrics include its ACO and ACOtronic crochet knitting, and double-needle-bed DNB/EL warp knitting machines.
ACO and ACOtronic machines are used to produce rigid and elastic technical textiles, ribbons and laces; and can process natural-fiber threads in the warp. Both feature compound needles, and are available in gauges ranging from 10 to 20 and in operating widths of 400 and 600 millimeters (mm).
The 410 ACO and 610 ACO machines feature eight weft bars controlled by link chain, and the BPO/S supplementary warp tube bar, which can function as a second warp bar to produce a lock-stitch effect on the fabric. The compound needles enable production of constructions such as simple or double lock-stitch when the BPO/S device is used with the standard warp bar, which is driven by Tricot/S cams.
The ACOtronic 400 and 600 machines feature 10 weft bars with electronic drive and one weft bar controlled by a weft device.
DNB/EL machines are used to produce sports equipment and food netting; high-resistance ribbons made with special fibers; fabrics and ribbons for automotive, construction, geotextile and industrial applications; medical textiles such as netting, bandages and dressings; and other products. The two needle beds enable production of double-faced articles that are identical on both sides.
The DNB/EL-800-8B offers an 800-mm working width and four, six or eight pattern guide bars. The DNB/EL-1270-12B features a 1,270-mm working width and 12 pattern guide bars. Both models feature electronic drives; use latch needles; can process any type of yarn, depending on machine gauge; and come equipped with the Data Control 4 Controller with color display. Comez Draw 4 or System.win software are used to program the pattern.
October/November/December 2009
Shima Seiki's WholeGarment technology enables production of fully fashioned garments in one piece, with no sewing or linking required.
Seamless Technology
Interest in seamless knits has manufacturers in all segments - whether flat, circular or warp knitting - developing machinery to enable ever newer concepts to be produced. The apparel and therapeutic medical textile sectors are especially interested in seamless technologies. Apparel areas include activewear, outerwear, swimwear, lingerie, hosiery and shapewear. Medical applications include compression hosiery and a range of garments geared toward promoting wellness.
Shima Seiki Manufacturing Ltd., Japan: Shima Seiki's WholeGarment seamless flat knitting technology enables production of a garment in one piece, with no sewing or linking required. MACH2X, the latest model in the WholeGarment line, offers more than twice the productivity of previous versions.
"WholeGarment production utilizes 3-D shaping technology, which allows the garment to conform to the body for unprecedented fit and comfort," said Masaki Karasuno, Shima Seiki's creative director, noting the technology's labor-, time- and cost-saving benefits, including the possibility of on-demand knitting and mass-customization of knitwear; the ability of knitters to stay competitive with knitters in low-labor-cost countries; and resource savings because yarn consumption is limited to what is needed to make the garment.
Masaki said a MACH2X15L machine was shown at ShanghaiTex 2009 knitting a ladies' pleated pullover with structured design knit in 23 minutes, 19 seconds. "The MACH2X is capable of sustained knitting speeds of 1.6 meters per second, the fastest production specs for a flat knitting machine," Masaki added.
H. Stoll GmbH & Co. KG, Germany: Stoll has improved the productivity of its Compact Class CMS flat knitting machines, which are able to partially use different gauges on one machine without replacing needles or converting gauges. Intarsia knitting capabilities are standard on most models. The machines also offer short setup times, enabling quick changes and fulfillment of large orders.
Two new entry models include the CMS 502 and CMS 502 multi gauge, which feature two knitting systems, a 45-inch working width, take-down comb, cutting and clamping on the right side, yarn feed on the left side, moveable display slide, additional yarn control units, two adjustable plating yarn feeders, adjustable main take-down, increased productivity, and gauges ranging from E5 to E18.
Stoll also offers accessories and software solutions, including intarsia kits, plating yarn feeders and kits, a new ASCON® automatic stitch control yarn measuring device, and enhanced M1plus® pattern software.
Santoni S.p.A., Italy: New electronic seamlesswear circular knitting machinery from Santoni includes its patented SM8-TOP1 V and SM12-EVO3 single-jersey machines, and the SM9-MF double-jersey machine. Apparel applications include undergarments, outerwear, activewear, swimwear and sanitarywear.
SM8-TOP1 V features eight yarn feeds with one selection point per feed. SM12-EVO3 has 12 yarn feeds with three selection points per feed; and can process natural- and man-made-fiber yarns, and bare and covered elastic yarns. Both models offer optional terry capabilities; and enable high production of single body-size garments, and eight or 12 feeds of high-definition patterns with distinct colors, depending on the model.
SM9-MF is suitable for knitting ribbed garments in a continuous tubular fabric or single garments using one weft or separation yarn. The machine's needle-to-needle selection in three configurations on the cylinder and two on the dial, as well as transfer positions, enable production of all styles of ribbing and inlaid structures.
Karl Mayer Textilmaschinenfabrik GmbH, Germany: This warp knitting machinery manufacturer sees significant opportunities in the seamless market and has been expanding its activities in that area. The latest version of its DJ narrow Seamless Smart double bar raschel machines - the DJ 6/2 (EL), 44" - can produce a variety of seamless or virtually seamless products such as pantyhose and stockings, undergarments and sportswear. The machine features four ground guide bars - two more than the earlier-edition DJ 4/2, is available in gauges E24 and E28, and can be equipped with an electronic guide bar drive (EL) - which allows a high degree of patterning flexibility and enables very efficient processing even of small batches, the company reports. It also features a jacquard system with two jacquard guide bars, piezo technology to control the jacquard needles, KAMCOS® control and monitoring system with Multi-Speed, and electronic beam drives.
"The number of orders has been better than expected since the DJ series was introduced," said Oliver Mathews, sales manager, Karl Mayer. "In the light of the current economic situation, companies are trying to improve their competitive edge by coming up with new ideas and trying new approaches. Our DJ 6/2 can help them to do this."
Float Plating Technology
Pai Lung Machinery Mill Co. Ltd., Taiwan: Circular knitting machinery manufacturer Pai Lung offers its PL-KSFP four-track single-jersey float plating machine to produce a knit fabric that looks like a woven but has the feel and breathability of a knit. The technology, first developed for automotive seat cover fabrics, is now being used to produce denim, suiting and corduroy fabrics."
Pai Lung developed and patented the structure using knit and float, using knit cams and sinker cams as well as sinkers to do a knit on one side of the fabric and a very tight float on the other. The float gives the woven effect. Depending on the cylinder cam arrangement, the machine has the ability to do one-, two- and three-needle floats," said Mike Moody, vice president of United States-based Nova Knitting Machinery - joint partner with Pai Lung, and the company's exclusive representative in North and Central America and Colombia.
"The fabric has gone through extensive testing to measure air penetration, sewing strength recovery rates, durability and pilling. In all tests, the float plated fabric either matched or excelled beyond the woven results," he added.
Moody said a 26-inch-diameter 20-gauge machine can knit 900 to 1,000 pounds of 18/1 cotton thread in 24 hours. A lighter-weight polyester suiting fabric would be produced using a 24- to 28-gauge machine.
Pai Lung's float plating technology produces knit fabrics that look like wovens and has applications for denim, suiting and corduroy fabrics.
Technical Textile Solutions
Comez S.p.A., Italy: Comez, a maker of crochet knitting, warp knitting and narrow weaving machinery, lately has put a certain emphasis on technical textile solutions. Machines suitable for such fabrics include its ACO and ACOtronic crochet knitting, and double-needle-bed DNB/EL warp knitting machines.
ACO and ACOtronic machines are used to produce rigid and elastic technical textiles, ribbons and laces; and can process natural-fiber threads in the warp. Both feature compound needles, and are available in gauges ranging from 10 to 20 and in operating widths of 400 and 600 millimeters (mm).
The 410 ACO and 610 ACO machines feature eight weft bars controlled by link chain, and the BPO/S supplementary warp tube bar, which can function as a second warp bar to produce a lock-stitch effect on the fabric. The compound needles enable production of constructions such as simple or double lock-stitch when the BPO/S device is used with the standard warp bar, which is driven by Tricot/S cams.
The ACOtronic 400 and 600 machines feature 10 weft bars with electronic drive and one weft bar controlled by a weft device.
DNB/EL machines are used to produce sports equipment and food netting; high-resistance ribbons made with special fibers; fabrics and ribbons for automotive, construction, geotextile and industrial applications; medical textiles such as netting, bandages and dressings; and other products. The two needle beds enable production of double-faced articles that are identical on both sides.
The DNB/EL-800-8B offers an 800-mm working width and four, six or eight pattern guide bars. The DNB/EL-1270-12B features a 1,270-mm working width and 12 pattern guide bars. Both models feature electronic drives; use latch needles; can process any type of yarn, depending on machine gauge; and come equipped with the Data Control 4 Controller with color display. Comez Draw 4 or System.win software are used to program the pattern.
October/November/December 2009
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针织创新
针织机械制造商推出了一系列的技术方案以对应终端产品制造商的需求。以下就是六家
领先的机械制造商在针织技术方面的最新成果。
岛津公司的整体服装技术能以整体形式生产出时尚的服装，无需缝纫或拼凑。
无缝技术
对无缝针织感兴趣的制造商分布在各个领域——不论是横机、圆机还是经编机——开发出能
够支持全新概念生产的机械。服装和医疗卫生用纺织品领域对无缝技术具有特殊的兴趣。
服装领域的应用包括运动服、外套、泳衣、内衣、连裤袜和塑身服等等。医疗方面的应
用包括压缩针织品和各种有利于加快康复的服装。
日本岛精公司：岛精公司的WholeGarment整体服装无缝横机针织技术能以整体形式生产出
一件服装，而不需要缝纫或是拼凑。MACH2X是整体服装生产线中的最新型号，比之前的版
本生产效率提高了两倍多。
“整体服装生产利用了3D立体成形技术，这可以让服装前所未有的贴身和舒适，”岛精公司
创新总监Masaki Karasuno表示。他强调，这种技术具有省时、省力、经济的特点，还有可
能支持“按需加工”针织装及大批量的定制服务。而且，针织商拥有这种技术后，可以保持
对低劳动成本国家的竞争力。由于只需要根据服装生产的用量使用纱线，大量原料节约下
来了。
Masaki说，在2009上海纺织工业展上展示了一台MACH2X15L机器，在23分19秒时间内织完一
件有结构设计的褶饰女式套头衫。“MACH2X能够以每秒1.6米的速度持续不断工作，这对横
机来说是最快的速度了。” Masaki补充道。
德国STOLL公司：STOLL公司改进了它的紧凑型经典CMS横机，让它可以在一台机器上部分使
用不同的针距，而无需更换针头或改变针距。嵌花针织的设置在大多数型号上是标准的。
这些机器也缩短了安装时间，支持并满足快速变化的大批量订单。
两种新的入门机器包括CMS 502和CMS 502多针距，特点是有两个针织系统，工作幅宽达
到45英寸，可拆卸梳子，右边是切割和钳压，左边是喂纱，还有可移动的展示滑板，额外的纱
线控制组件，两个可调节的添纱器，可调节的主拆卸装置，生产效率增加，针距范围从E5
到E18。
STOLL也提供零配件和软件方案，包括嵌花工具、添纱器及零件，新的ASCON®自动线圈控制
纱线测量仪，以及改进的M1plus®花型软件。
意大利Santoni公司：Santoni公司推出的新型无缝服装圆型针织机包括它的专利产
品SM8-TOP1 V 和SM12-EVO3单面针织机，以及SM9-MF双面针织机。在服装上的应用包括裤
装、外套、运动服、泳衣和卫生保健用衣物。
SM8-TOP1 V的特点是有8个喂纱头，每次喂纱选择1个点。而SM12-EVO3有12个喂纱头，每次
喂纱有3个选择点；它能加工天然或人造纤维纱线，稀少的及包覆弹力纱。两种型号都提供
可选的毛圈装置，支持单件身体大小的服装的大批量生产；根据型号的不同，其8到12个喂
纱头具有截然不同色彩的高分辨率花型。
SM9-MF适合使用连续不断的管状织物织罗纹服装，或使用纬纱或分隔开的纱线织单件服装。
这种机器的针对针的选择在圆筒上有三种规格，两个在针盘上，可转移位置，能生产各种风
格的罗纹和嵌花结构。
德国卡尔迈耶公司：这家经编机械制造商在无缝市场看到巨大的商机，并已经在这个领域
加快它的活动。它的最新型DJ窄幅无缝智能双针板拉歇尔经编机——DJ 6/2 (EL), 44——能
够生产各种不同的无缝或几乎无缝的产品，包括连裤袜、长筒袜、裤装和运动服。该机器
的特点是具有4个地面梳栉——比之前的DJ 4/2版本多2个，针距范围包括E24和E28，能够安
装一个电子导向针板驱动（EL）——这使得它具有高度的图案灵活性，在即使订单小的情况下
也能够非常高效的加工。它的其它特点还包括具有2个提花梳栉的提花系统，压电技术控
制提花针头，多种速度的KAMCOS®控制及监视系统，电子织轴驱动器。
“自从推出DJ系列产品，我们获得的订单比预计的还好，”卡尔迈耶公司的销售经理Oliver
Mathews谈到，“考虑到目前的经济形势，企业希望通过紧跟创新技术并采用新的方式来提
高他们的竞争力。我们的DJ 6/2可以帮助他们实现这一目标。”
佰龙的浮线镀圈技术可以生产出看起来像梭织品的针织面料，应用于牛仔布、西服和灯芯绒面料。
浮线镀圈技术
台湾佰龙机械公司：圆形针织机械制造商佰龙推出了它的PL-KSFP四针道单面浮线镀圈
机，可以生产出看上去像梭织产品但却具有针织品的触感和透气性的织物。这种技术最初
是为汽车座椅套面料而开发的，现在它被用来生产牛仔布、西服和灯芯绒面料。
“佰龙开发了这种使用针织和浮线的结构并申请了专利，它还使用了成圈三角和沉降片三
角，以及使用沉降片在面料的一面形成一个成圈在另一面形成一个非常紧的浮线。这种浮
线产生了梭织效果。根据针筒三角安排的不同，机器可以形成1针、2针，或3针的浮线，”美
国Nova针织机械公司的副总裁Mike Moody谈道。该公司是佰龙的合作伙伴，独家代理佰龙
在北美、中美洲包括哥伦比亚的销售。
“这种织物已经通过了严格的测试，检测了空气渗透率，缝纫强度恢复率，耐磨性和起球性。
在所有的测试中，浮线镀圈织物达到或超过了梭织品的效果。”他补充到。
Moody表示，1个直径26英寸20针的机器可以在24小时内生产900到1000磅的18/1棉线。也
可以用1台24到28针的机器生产轻质的涤纶西服面料。
技术用纺织品解决方案
意大利Comez公司：Comez公司是一家钩编针织、经编针织和窄幅梭织机械的制造商，它最
近着力在技术用纺织品解决方案上。适合生产这些面料的机器包括它的ACO及ACOtronic
钩编针织机，双针床DNB/EL经编针织机。
ACO及ACOtronic钩编针织机用来生产刚性和弹性技术用纺织品，丝带和蕾丝；也能在经纱
中加工天然纤维线。两种机器都具有混合针，针距范围从10到20，工作幅宽达到400至600
毫米。
410 ACO和610 ACO机器的特点是具有8个纬档，通过连接链控制；带有BPO/S补充经线管
档，它可以当成第二个经档生产出具有包缝线迹效果的织物。当BPO/S装置与通
过Tricot/S三角驱动的标准经档一起使用时，混合针可以生产出例如单包缝线迹或双包缝
线迹的结构。
400 ACO和600 ACO机器的特点是具有10个通过电子驱动的纬档和1个由纬纱装置控制的纬
档。
DNB/EL机器被用来生产运动设备和食品网；由特种纤维制成的高强度丝带；汽车、建筑、
土工布以及产业用织物和丝带；包括网、绷带、敷料等医疗用纺织品；以及其它产品。它
的两个针床让它可以生产出两边完全一样的双面物品。
DNB/EL-800-8B的工作幅宽是800毫米，有4、6或8个花型梳栉。DNB/EL-1270-12B的工作幅
宽是1270毫米，有12个花型梳栉。两种机器都具有电子驱动；使用舌针；根据机器的针距不
同，能够加工任何规格的纱线；安装了可以展示色彩的数据控制器Data Control 4。使
用Comez Draw 4 或System.win软件进行花型编程。
图片说明
岛津公司的整体服装技术能以整体形式生产出时尚的服装，无需缝纫或拼凑。
佰龙的浮线镀圈技术可以生产出看起来像梭织品的针织面料，应用于牛仔布、西服和灯芯
绒面料。