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Oct/Nov/Dec 2011

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In Search Of A New Attitude

Jürg Rupp, Executive Editor

F or centuries, everyday products, such as food and clothing, came from a not-too-far distance. With the discovery of oil in the second half of the 19th century, everything changed. After World War II, mobility and leisure were key words. People started to spend more money on pleasure than on food and clothing. One by one, production sites moved from the West eastward and finally arrived in China. Big retail stores were forced to buy more and more from Asia and to sell at ever-lower prices. Moreover, there was a total non-existence of environmental laws such as there were in Europe. China and other Asian countries became the production bases for the global textile industry at any price.

Attitudes changed again: Mankind didn't live in season anymore. It became routine to have strawberries on Christmas or to fly to the Caribbean in wintertime. Oil was cheap, and so were food and clothing. And then, environmental consciousness in Europe changed dramatically. Does it make sense to send fruit around the world? Why should there be carbon dioxide emissions for flying wine from Australia or Latin America to Europe, if Europe has enough wine of its own?

Snowballing systems wobbled, first with high energy prices. Nongovernmental organization s exposed unacceptable working conditions and again changed Western consumer consciousness. Now, the snowballing systems have collapsed totally thanks to the financial scandals in Western banks. Asians are paying the price again: dropped orders, declining exports - the whole world is in turmoil. Confidence has been wiped out. Everybody is on the defensive. If Asia wants to come out of this turmoil stronger than ever, it must adapt to new rules. China already has started in this direction. In June 2006, in a vision for the 11th Five-Year Plan from 2006 to 2010, the China National Development and Reform Commission and the China National Textile & Apparel Council presented ambitious targets for the national textile and apparel industry. For textile machinery, the plan calls for initiatives to raise the level of the whole industry. In the dyeing sector, the target is to phase out equipment and factories that do not comply with anti-pollution standards.

So it's time for a new attitude - it's time for a change.

January/February/March 2009

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寻觅新态度

长久以来,人们生活所需的日用品,如食物及衣物等,均来自毗邻之地;直至19世纪后期石油出土,一切都变了。二战后,灵活及悠闲是关键。人们在休闲享乐方面的花销开始大大超过在食物及衣物方面的花销。厂 房一个又一个地由西方东移,最后于中国落户。大型零售店无可避免地必须购买亚洲商品,并以愈来愈低的价格出售。还有,不像欧洲,保护环境的条例仍未订立。中国及其它亚洲国家成为全球各种价位纺织品的生产基地。

消费态度又变了:人类不再受制于天气的变化,于圣诞节享受草莓、飞到加勒比海避寒已成为惯例。不单石油,就是食物及衣物均相对便宜了。接着,欧洲的环保心态出现了戏剧性的变化。将 水果辗转运往全球各地合理吗? 如果欧洲本身已有足够的酒产,为何因要从澳洲或拉丁美洲输入酒品而制造破坏环境的二氧化碳呢?

再下来,雪球效应生效了 -- 始自昂贵的能源价格。非政府组织暴露了不当的工作条件,再一次改变了西方消费者的意识。时至今日,雪球效应却崩溃了 -- 多亏了西方国家银行的金融丑闻所赐。亚 洲唯有再次牺牲:订单收缩、外销商品减少,整个世界陷入混乱之中,由是信心不再,人人自保。亚洲如欲走出困境,再次振兴,便得履行新制,而中国已率先起步。2006年6月,中 国在展望2006至2010年发展的第十一个五年计划中,中国发展和改革委员会及中置纺织工业协会为全国的纺织及成衣业订下了宏大的目标。纺织设备方面,五年计划敦促纺织业全力提升档次;至于染色业方面的目标,则 是替换未能合乎污染标准的设备及工厂。

由此可见,是寻找新态度的时机了 -- 是该改革的时候了。

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